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Hands-on review of The Favre-Leuba Raider Harpoon

A revolutionary timepiece that will change the way you read time

Earlier this month, the 279- year old Swiss watch brand – Favre-Leuba, returned to India after a gap of nearly 40 years. The first Swiss watch brand to set shop in the Indian sub-continent back in the 1960s, Favre-Leuba is also the second-oldest Swiss watch brand in the world. During the launch, the brand unveiled 21 new watches which include an arsenal of incredible timepieces that draw inspiration from some of their iconic models like the Deep Blue and Sea Sky. Among these, the one watch already making waves in the watch industry is their latest flagship timepiece – the Favre-Leuba Raider Harpoon.

A revolutionary timepiece- Favre-Leuba Raider Harpoon was conceptualised and designed to be the ultimate diver’s watch with the helium valve and single hour hand on the dial.

MRP: 336,000 


Launching exclusively in India with Ethos Watch Boutiques, a hands-on review of the Raider Harpoon was expected. So here we are with an in-depth, hands-on review of the bespoke watch that aims to change the way we read time.

An Introduction To The Watch:

Always adhering to values such as defiance, ingenuity and pioneering spirit, it comes as no surprise that the Raider Harpoon completely re-imagines and revolutionizes the way one reads the time off a dial. Although originally designed in 1968, the Raider Harpoon never made its way into production due to the quartz crisis that hit the Swiss watch industry in 1969. The Harpoon was conceptualized and designed to be the ultimate diver’s watch with the first of its kind helium valve and single hour hand on the dial.



Always adhering to values such as defiance, ingenuity and pioneering spirit, the Raider Harpoon completely re-imagines and revolutionizes the way one reads the time off a dial.

MRP: 336,000  

Based on the idea of “less is more”, the Raider Harpoon, like its prototype predecessor of 1968, strives to simplify the process of reading time with just a single hand on the dial. Pegged as the ultimate diver’s watch, the Raider Harpoon makes sure that the diver can keep track of the elapsed time with just a quick glance.

The Dial: Single Hand, Appliquéd Index Markers With SuperLuminova

As mentioned before, the Raider Harpoon completely re-imagines and revolutionizes the way we read time with the innovative and incredible single hand dial. The black dial of the watch is divided into three parts. The outer white chapter ring with Arabic numerals denotes the hours, the inner circle with appliquéd index markers displays the minutes and the centrally located rotating disk marks the running seconds.

The large single hand along with the appliquéd index markers are all generously treated with Super-LumiNova to make reading the time easy in low-light conditions, especially since it is necessary for a diver to know that the watch is functioning properly at all times when underwater. The central disc of the Raider Harpoon that displays the running seconds is also equipped with a luminous base.

The dial of the Favre-Leuba Raider Harpoon is divided into three parts. The centrally located rotating disk marks the running seconds, the inner circle displays the minutes and the outer white chapter ring with Arabic numerals denotes the hours.

Equipped with a just a single hand instead of your stereotypical hour, minute and seconds hands, the Raider Harpoon’s dial is unlike any other regular, run-of-the-mill dials. There is no doubt that reading the time off the Harpoon will definitely need some getting used to, however, be rest assured, once you know how it works, the simplicity and ingenuity of the dial will leave you a convert.

How Does It Work? A Different Way Of Reading Time

Reading time: The single hand on the dial is just before 7 on the outer chapter ring and is placed at the 10 o’clock position in the inner circle of the dial. As the outer and inner ring denote the hours and minutes, respectively, this means that the time on the image is 06 hours and 50 minutes. 

The single hand mechanism makes sure that the diver can keep track of the elapsed time with just a quick glance at the dial. All one needs to concentrate on is the luminous marker on the unidirectional bezel and the single hand on the dial to check the remaining dive time. 

The single hand dial is a patented mechanism developed entirely at Favre-Leuba. A specially constructed mechanism, the outer white chapter ring rotates around the dial in accordance with the movement of the single hand. The brilliance of this mechanism is how the rotational speed of the hour indicator (chapter ring) works in perfect symmetry with the movement of the single hand on the dial. The interplay of the single hand and the rotating chapter ring makes it incredibly easy to read the time. Here, it is imperative to understand that in order to read time, one needs to work their way from the outside (hours) and move inwards (minutes) towards the centre (running seconds).

For example, if you notice the image below, the single hand on the dial is pointing towards 7 on the outer chapter ring and is placed at the 10 o’clock position in the inner circle of the dial. As we mentioned before, the outer and inner ring denote the hours and minutes, respectively, this means that the time on the image below is 07 hours and 50 minutes.

The Importance Of The Single Hand: How Does It Assist Diving?

A diver’s watch is basically a tool watch that has a purpose. Anyone who loves discovering the mysterious world underwater knows for a fact that it is easy to get lost and distracted by the magical wonders of the sea. Hence, it is imperative to keep track of time as a little slip of concentration could be fatal.

The single hand mechanism makes sure that the diver can keep track of the elapsed time with just a quick glance at the dial. All he needs to concentrate on is the luminous marker on the unidirectional bezel and the single hand on the dial to check the remaining dive time. It rules out any possibility of getting confused with the hour hand (which could probably save your life someday). Consequently, the Favre-Leuba Raider Harpoon proves to be a reliable companion for all your underwater endeavors.

Keeping in accordance with Favre- Leuba’s 279-year-old history and tradition of manufacturing iconic timepieces, the 46mm stainless steel case with gunmetal PVD coating is bold and will immediately catch your eye. 

The logo engraved screw-in crown and the automatic helium valve can be found at the 4 and 2 o’clock positions on the side of the case, respectively. 

Powered by an automatic mechanical movement, the Favre-Leuba Raider Harpoon is a reliable companion not just under water but on land too! 

Strap Options:

The Raider Harpoon has a black rubber strap with a stainless steel gunmetal PVD coated pin buckle. The rubber strap also guarantees perfect grip and resilience against any odds a diver might face underwater. However, irrespective of its sporty persona and adventurous spirit, the Raider Harpoon is the perfect accessory for all occasions.

The collection is also available in stainless steel bracelet and brown calfskin leather strap variations.

From an exhilarating dive into the deepest corners of the ocean to a boardroom presentation, the Favre-Leuba Raider Harpoon is the perfect companion for all occasions.

The Favre-Leuba Raider Harpoon is attached to a black rubber strap with a stainless steel gunmetal PVD coated pin buckle. 

Price And Availability:

The Favre-Leuba Raider Harpoon in stainless steel gunmetal PVD coating is priced at Rs. 336,000. It is also available in a stainless steel version with blue dial.

All watches from the Favre-Leuba Raider Harpoon collection are available exclusively at Ethos Watch Boutiques.

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